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I figured it might be the headlight relay located in the engine bay fuse box on my '85 4Runner , so I got one of those, changed it out and no difference.
Then I did a bit more diagnostic work and found the high beams would work in "flash" mode, just not by themselves. According to the Factory Service Manual, this indicates a problem in the "combo" switch. Note that the Combo switch is that lever behind the steering wheel with the knob you rotate to turn on the running lights and headlights as well as push back and forth to go from low to high beams and pulll back to use Flash mode low and high beams both on.
It is THE thing that controls the headlights on a Toyota. Rotating the switch on the end turns on the headlight relay to supply power to the headlights. Then to turn on the low or high beams, the combo switch supplies a ground connection to the headlights to complete the circuit and let the current flow through the headlight bulb filament and make light.
I decided I should at least have a look at this before springing for a special order and probably high priced replacement part. Pulled off the steering wheel and the trim around the steering column.
I removed the combo switch assembly with 4 screws, then found the 4 screws that held in the headlight switch. I found a lot of grease smeared all over the switch and this was probably the source of the problem.
I think the grease was off the horn contact. I cleaned up most of it, but found the contact was still not good. The trusty Factory Service Manual had a schematic of the switch and is is very complex.
There is one set of contacts that do energize the headlight relay, which in turn supplies power to the headlights. However, the switch itself actually switches the grounds to the headlights and has to pass the full current of two filaments through it. I think I will redesign this at a later date to have two separate relays, one for each high and low beam to eliminate the power loss of this complex wiring scheme, see below for how to do this Anyway, I noticed that these contacts were a bit pitted from the high current they have to carry.
I carefully filed each pair of contacts until I had nice shiny metal on each one. The red arrow in the photo above points to one of the switch contacts where the file is being used to clean up the contacts. So which contacts do you need to file? A simple visual examination of each pair of contact will usually reveal their condition. The contacts should be flat and smooth, if not hit them with a thin file.
And which contacts do what? Operate the combo switch and see which ones close and open in the various positions. The contacts that close when the lever is pushed forward are the ones that turn on the high beams. And for later model ''95 4Runner and ''95 pickup vehicles, this thread has a good description of the headlight combo switch with photos. Years ago, I had replaced the old sealed beams type with the Hella Vision Plus H4 halogen headlights standard 6"x8" size. FYI, an H4 bulb has 2 filaments, one for low and one for high beam.
It has 3 wires arranged in a "U" shape, 2 vertical, one horizontal. Newer vehicles use the x type connectors, which are shown in the picture below, they are usually rounded in shape and often are sealed.
Probably a much better design than the H4, but I wanted to keep things stock. Since the bulb in the H4 headlight is separate from the housing, it is easier and less expensive to repair or upgrade. Instead of having to buy a whole new housing if a bulb burns out, you just buy a new bulb. Also, much easier to carry a spare bulb or two than to carry a bulky sealed beam lamp. Also, you have a wide variety of bulbs to choose from, with different power and light output ratings as well as a wide variety of housings from DOT legal to E-code European spec lights.
And since all the parts are interchangeable, you are not stuck with the bulb that came with the housing. So after dealing with repairing the faulty headlight combo switch above I didn't want to mess with that anymore. Also, after seeing the skimpy stock wiring and convoluted path that the headlight current takes, I decided it was time to upgrade the system wiring.
So armed with the knowledge that Toyota headlights operated on a switch ground system, and that I use H4 style headlights in my '85 4Runner, I found a nice looking and well designed wiring harness ki t to fit my needs, it supports 2 - H4 style headlights one on each side and works off of the switched ground system that Toyota uses:.
Pictured above is a style, switched power harness , but its very similar to the H4 harness I used. The blue connector looks like the back of a headlight bulb and you simply connect one of the existing headlight connectors to it.
Also, not pictured in the above switched-power harness is a small black box used in the switched-ground Toyota system, which contains two diodes and a small resistor, which is used to direct a small amount of current back to the high beam indicator light on the dash. The harness is designed to accommodate horizontal headlight separations of approx.
The connection shown in photo A supplies the control power to the two relays in the new harness. Just plug one of the stock faded yellow headlight connectors female H4 into the bright yellow mating connector male H4 on the new harness. It can only go in one way and there is only one male H4 connector, so it is hard to get this step wrong! Since this connector is close to the relays, which in turn have to be close to the power source.
Since I tapped into power at the engine fuse block, I used the passenger side light, your installation may be different. Installation of the harness is similar to the H4 pictured. Match up the male and female connectors in a manner similar to the H4 connectors shown in the pictures. Then, connect the power leads, via a fuse I used a single 30A fuse in my auxiliary fuse block , but two separate 20A fuses would also work well to power picture B - if no fuse block handy, you can run a fused wire off the battery or off the engine fuse box as needed.
Or if you wish, the harness has fusible links built into the power leads and you could screw those right to the battery or alternator.
However, a replaceable fuse or circuit breaker would be a more reliable connection i. A final option for a power connection, while not the most ideal, would be to connect the power leads to the stock headlight connector "common" terminal. This would be the terminal that goes to 12V when the lights are turned on. This circuit is fed by the stock headlight relay and fuse.
Then attach the two ground connections to the frame or body near by the headlights. I found a couple of body bolts that were a good ground points.
Daytime running light setups can be implemented in a variety of ways. In a full voltage setup, typically the low beam headlight is simply turned on whenever the vehicle is running. In a reduced voltage setup, the headlights are also turned on when the vehicle is running, but at a reduced power level.
This reduced power level is used to reduce glare to oncoming drivers and also to reduce the power load of the lights on the vehicle's electrical system. There are a couple of ways to reduce the power to the headlights in DRL mode. The simplest way is with a large power resistor in series with the light bulbs to limit the voltage and current flowing through them.
When running, a typical 55 watt headlight bulb has about 3 ohms of resistance. With 2 bulbs in parallel left and right side you have a load of about 1. So by simply inserting a separate 1. This is the simplest way to reduce the power to the headlights in DRL operation. Then to get full headlight brightness, you simply add a power relay set up to bypass that power resistor with a pair of contacts.
When bypassed you now just have the original full power current in the headlights. This resistor may be in the power or ground side of the headlights, it's location will vary with vehicle make and model. A variation of the reduced power DRL is to use some sort of solid state power device to send reduced voltage to the lights, usually in the form of a pulse width modulated voltage, essentially like turning the light on and off very fast.
For this type of setup, it is probably best not to try and integrate a headlight relay kit, since relays are mechanical devices are typically can't operate when a rapidly switching voltage. Some folks have had luck with adding a capacitor in parallel with the relay coil to filter the rapidly changing voltage to make a smoother signal to use to turn the relay on. As each make and model DRL system is different, you'll need to refer to a good wiring diagram for the vehicle in question to help determine how best to hook up the harness either to retain DRL operation or to bypass it as you see fit.
Below are some typical DRL setups described and how one might go about integrating the new headlight wiring harness into various systems:. So how well does the system work? In my opinion, it works great! The overall quality is very nice, the relays are socketed for easy replacement if needed. I like the fact that I can revert to stock just by swapping back to the old headlight connectors.
This is handy if a relay dies on the trail, or I want to move the harness to a new vehicle. All the wires are run in protective looms, and everything is straight point-to-point connections, no splices or other mid-wire breaks.
While I had no problems with the installation, there are a couple of possible issues you might run into. Summarized below are some common installation problems and some easy fixes:. For a quick test of how effective the harness is, I used a volt meter across the headlight bulb to measure the actual voltage drop at the filaments see image below.
With the stock harness, I measured Lots of favourable reviews online. Contact Eric at ericlarock hotmail. Used for 6 gigs. Switched to an SR as I like the neck width better. Active or passive, 0 fret, long scale, mid switch and wicked Aguilar pickups.
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I've used it mostly at home. Unfortunately this also 'suppressed' tone and 'punch' musicality but it made the numbers look good to the 'spoon fed' consumer kind of like overly high speaker wattage numbers, and sorry if you're in that group and, most folks were so you're not alone. Secondly manufacturers were moving away from 'discrete-transistor' output designs to more 'monolithic' 'power-pack' output designs. While these designs reduced power supply requirements, thus reducing parts costs and weight also translates to lower prices due to savings on freight from Asia they generally sounded anywhere from somewhat 'anemic' compared with the designs from a few years previous, to completely 'gutless' and 'un-musical'.
Can anyone say 'threw the baby out with the bath water'? Excerpts of the above text from the website of one of the best Car Audio sites and stores in the world, 'Car-Fi' www.
Switches now clean sounding and performing fine. While this amp was originally rated at 50 WPC on our test bench the internal amplifiers of this particular unit, Great unit to provide the heart of a medium to mid-large sized Hi-Fi system. All functions test perfectly.
Great integrated for just about any stereo system from med to medium large speakers. This is a fabulous amp. Sonically superb following our techs work. Unit looks good and sounds great! Can include a pdf 'e' copy of the Onkyo A Service Manual if the new owner so desires.
Includes our 90 day limited warranty. Onkyo A Stereo Integrated amplifier Condition 8. On our test bench, each internal amplifier of this particular unit, AC Idle current at. We thought they were too 'recent' to bother with, but then we did our preliminary tests and quickly changed our opinion. Once our tech got finished with it, we were thoroughly surprised and impressed. Large internal power supply, relative to most amps in it's range. Unit looks good with minor, typical wear, mostly to edges.
All functions tested for perfect operation. Performs and sounds great! This unit will also supply power to many 'proprietary Fisher' units from this series, such as Fisher Tuners and Cassette Decks. Classic brushed aluminum face plate with the original aluminum knobs volume knob may be a replacement.
This unit does have a few 'battle scars'. Besides the fairly typical 'finish peel', there's some 'clouding' thru the finish on the meter bezel, and some 'light spots' across the face plate that nothing seemed to effect It's not a 'beauty contest winner' but not 'offensive', see photo collage above. On our test bench the internal amplifiers of this particular unit, Barring it's cosmetic blems it's a Great amp for home or project recording studio use.
This essentially gives you Class-A sonics, but without all the heat of a true Class-A amp design. It however eliminates the 'switching noise' present in many "A-B" designs spelled out in detail in the original Pioneer SA sales brochure, compliments of www.
If they were all 'gold plated' it would certainly save some 'headaches'. Pioneer SA Original Specifications: Entire unit, including the original brushed aluminum, Face and knobs are in beautiful condition.